Most museums in this city show you what happened. This one shows you what is going to happen. The Shanghai Urban Planning Exhibition Center opened in 2000 on the north-east side of People's Square, and it reopened in August 2022 after a full renovation. Six floors, and the subject on every one of them is the shape of the city itself, how it grew, how it is being rebuilt, and what the planners intend for the next twenty years.
这座城市多数博物馆给你看已经发生的事。这一座给你看将要发生的事。上海城市规划展示馆 2000 年在人民广场东北侧开馆,2022 年 8 月整馆改造后重开。六层楼,每一层的主题都是这座城市本身的形状,它怎么长起来的,正在怎么改,规划者打算让它往后二十年长成什么样。
The reason to come is on the third floor. A scale model1 of central Shanghai at one to five hundred, covering about six hundred square metres of floor and standing in for the hundred-odd square kilometres inside the inner ring road. Every building inside that ring is there, at the right height and in the right place, and the ones still under construction are in clear acrylic2 so you can tell them apart from what is finished. You walk around the edge, and there is a raised gallery4 so you can also look down on it.
值得来的东西在三楼。一座中心城区模型,比例一比五百,铺开六百平方米左右,对应内环以内一百多平方公里。内环以内每一幢楼都在上面,高度对、位置对,还在施工的用透明亚克力做,一眼能和建成的分开。观众绕着边上走,另外有一圈高台,可以从上往下看。
Here is how to use it with a group. Find the river first, because that S-shaped bend is unmistakable. The Bund is on the outside of the bend, Lujiazui on the inside. Now find your hotel. Once someone locates the building they slept in last night, the scale of everything else falls into place, and the rest of the tour becomes easier to explain. Point out the inner ring road3, the middle ring and the outer ring while they are looking, because those three names will come up all week.
带团时这样用它。先找黄浦江,那个 S 形弯认错不了。弯的外侧是外滩,内侧是陆家嘴。然后找酒店。只要有人认出昨晚睡的那幢楼,别的东西的尺度立刻就有了着落,后面的行程也好讲了。趁他们低头看的时候把内环、中环、外环指一遍,这三个名字接下来一星期天天会听到。
On the way out there is a pair of photographs that does more work than any commentary. The same view across the river, one taken in 1990 and one taken last year. In the first there are farm plots, low warehouses and a single chimney. In the second there are the three towers. Thirty-odd years separate them. Guests who have been half-listening usually stop at this point and start asking questions, so leave a few minutes here rather than at the door.
往外走的路上有一对照片,比任何讲解词都管用。同一个越江的角度,一张摄于 1990 年,一张是去年拍的。前一张里是农田、矮仓库和一根烟囱,后一张里是那三座塔。中间隔了三十来年。前面半听不听的客人到这里通常会停下来开始提问,所以时间要留在这儿,别留在门口。