This small strip of green at the tip of the Bund is Huangpu Park, opened in 1868. It was the first public park in China, built on mud that the river deposited against the bank of Suzhou Creek. The Municipal Council reclaimed1 the ground, planted it, and called it the Public Garden. For its first sixty years it was public in a very limited sense.
外滩尽头这一小片绿地是黄浦公园，1868 年开放。它是中国第一座公园，地基是苏州河口淤起来的滩地。工部局把这块滩地围起来种上树，起名 Public Garden。头六十年里，这个「公共」的范围很窄。
Many visitors have heard of a sign that read "No dogs and Chinese allowed". What the park regulations actually said, in the 1903 version, was two separate rules. One barred dogs and bicycles. Another said the garden was reserved for the foreign community, with Chinese admitted only as servants attending a foreign employer. Over the years the two clauses2 were remembered as one sentence, and that sentence became a symbol. The regulations themselves are in the municipal archive and can be read today.
很多客人听说过一块写着「华人与狗不得入内」的牌子。1903 年那版园规上，这是分开的两条。一条禁止狗和自行车进园，另一条写明公园供外侨使用，华人只有以外国雇主随从的身份才能进。年头久了，两条被记成了一句话，这句话后来成了象征。园规原件现在还在市档案馆，能查得到。
Pressure built through the 1920s. Chinese residents paid the same municipal3 taxes and were shut out of the park those taxes maintained, and Chinese members of the Municipal Council pushed the point year after year. In 1928 the council gave way and opened the park to everyone, on payment of a small entrance fee. That date is worth remembering, because it comes up in exams and in conversation with guests.
整个二十年代压力一直在积。华人交着一样的市政捐税，却进不了这些捐税养着的公园，华董在董事会上年年提这件事。1928 年工部局让步，公园对所有人开放，买一张小额门票就能进。这个年份值得记住，考试会问，客人也会问。
The three concrete columns rising over the park are the Monument to the People's Heroes, finished in 1993. The three shafts4 stand for three periods of struggle, from the Opium War through the founding of the People's Republic. Underneath it is the Bund History Museum, a single free room of old photographs that shows you what this bank looked like before the buildings behind us went up. Stand here and you can see three things at once. Behind you the Bund, in front of you Pudong, and under your feet the ground where the city began.
公园上方那三根混凝土立柱是人民英雄纪念塔，1993 年建成。三根柱子代表三个斗争时期，从鸦片战争一直到新中国成立。塔下是外滩历史纪念馆，一个免费的展室，里面的老照片能让你看到我们身后这排楼盖起来之前，这段江岸是什么样。站在这个位置能同时看到三样东西。身后是外滩，对面是浦东，脚下这块地是这座城市开始的地方。